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Known Errors

1942/1 Overdate

A 2 was punched over a 1 in the date, creating a visible overdate at both Philadelphia and Denver mints.

How to check: Examine the 2 in the date. The bottom curve of a 1 should be visible beneath the 2.

$300 - $5,000+

Doubled Die Varieties

Various years show doubling on the date, LIBERTY, and the fasces on the reverse.

How to check: Use magnification on the date and the word LIBERTY on the obverse. Check the reverse for doubling on E PLURIBUS UNUM.

$20 - $300

Repunched Mint Mark

The mint mark was punched into the die multiple times, creating doubled or shifted appearances.

How to check: Examine the mint mark (D or S) on the reverse near the lower left for secondary impressions.

$10 - $100

Full Bands Designation

While not an error, Mercury dimes showing full separation of the bands on the fasces command premiums.

How to check: Examine the fasces on the reverse. The horizontal bands should show complete separation with no merging.

$5 - $2,000+ on key dates with Full Bands

Quick Checks

Frequently Asked Questions

What Mercury dime errors are most valuable?

The 1942/1 overdate ($300-$5,000+), various doubled dies ($20-$300), and Full Bands examples on key dates top the list. The 1916-D is the key date regardless of errors.

How do I tell if my Mercury dime has Full Bands?

Look at the horizontal bands on the fasces on the reverse. Full Bands (FB) means all bands show complete separation. This designation significantly increases value on many dates.

Are Mercury dimes worth searching?

Absolutely. Beyond the silver value ($2+ per coin), key dates and errors can be worth hundreds to thousands. Upload photos to ErrorHunt for AI-powered analysis of varieties and errors.

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